Oil cooling pt 1

As possibly mentioned before I need to do something about the oil cooler / warmer device thing that had to be removed from the LHS of the block due to chassis constraints. 

I have just taken receipt of this:

Whilst there are disagreements as to what it is I have removed there is no disagreement on needing some form of managed cooling for both oil and transmission fluid on the L99 engine - oil because of the additional mechanical work being done by the Hydraulic cylinder shut off system on top of cooling and lubrication. Transmission due to heat being the killer of these types of transmissions.

So this thermostatic take off has outlet and inlet positioned to fit directly over where the old cooler/warmer thing was.

This will then keep the oil circulating in the engine till it's the right temp and then allow it to flow to the front oil cooler when needed so the oil should be kept at optimum operating temp. That's the theory anyway.

Fitting to follow soon.

Fuel System pt 2

As with much in life most of the time is spent thinking and planning and then a short amount of time doing. Well, in my case anyway.

So on that theme much planning has been done and I'm happy with the route. 

First things first, the trickiest part to locate is the Wix regulator next to the gear selector position just behind bell housing.

As this is the last 'fixed' piece before the final hose run up to the fuel rail I'm starting here and going backwards.

Next up securing the hose so that it does not chafe on the chassis nor anything else. I believe because it's braided it's already considered protected however I'm not wanting to risk an IVA fail on a small point like that.

Reverse photo of garage trainers not intended. Return line passes beneath pump but not below lower line of chassis.  This will need careful routing once pump bracket fitted. Which is the one part I'm waiting for as I didn't like the original billet aluminium one. Too big and bulky. 

Fuel System pt 1

Hurrah. With the spend embargo lifted I've started procuring parts for the fuel system. Having done a lot of analysis on this there is not a cheap way to build a fuel injection supply system cheaply... and safely.

The US LS swappers anecdotally talk about no change from $1000 and the same is about right for here (when you convert currency) when you factor in pump, filter, regulator, hose, hose fittings, clips and of course the tank itself.

So the above shows most of the connector parts.

And above on the rhs is the bullet filter and filter regulator.

My system design is as follows:

AK made stainless tank. (I don't feel the need to make this myself)

AN -8 feed from tank to high flow bullet filter. (1/2" gravity fed ptfe Teflon stainless braided hose. This hose might not have markings on it stating fuel however I have documentation from the company stating fitness for fuel injection which is a requirement for IVA test)

Bullet filter with steel mesh 40 micron filter (replaced the 8 micron paper one - too fine for gravity feed.

Bullet filter direct connection to Bosch 044 fuel pump. This is a WW re known workhorse.

AN -6 ptfe Teflon stainless braided hose to Wix 37337 filter regulator. This is a standard Corvette filter regulator which provides a return to the tank with regulated 48psi output for the fuel rail.

AN -6 line back to tank for return (at idle speed 90% of fuel is reported to need to return)

AN -6 hose to engine fuel rail.

This is the steel mesh filter element. A bit larger than recommended on inlet for Bosch pump but I'm not building a race car so not too worried about that.

More importantly I have the post filter and regulator so that fully filtered fuel reaches the injectors at the right pressure.

A couple of challenges to overcome are some bolt anchors cast into the transmission casing. These are not needed, non structural and are totally in the way of giving enough clearance for the fuel line taking engine rock into consideration.

One down, one to go.

This is what the problem would have been. 

More coming in the next instalment. 

Engine Modification - alt/ps

Two posts in one evening... What lucky readers.

One of the main challenges of using the Camaro engine - and what GM are selling as a standalone muscle car engine in the future is that the front end accessory drive system whilst nicely compact in a square on view don't really lend themselves to narrow inner chassis rails.

The alternator lower right and power steering need to move to a more traditional Corvette type position with high alternator and tucked in power steering pump.

However just adding a Corvette alternator bracket won't do as this needs Corvette powersteering pump and pulley too. In addition due to the different depths there would need to be spacers too.

At this point you might think it would be easier just to get a Corvette engine. Possibly but I don't have one... However help is at hand. There are several companies who have done the hard work  in measuring the variance and designing relocation bracketry to get round all this. Kwik Performance and LS Brackets are the two I narrowed down. These two specifically cater for the 2010+ A6 Camaro L99 engine that I have. Kwik require corvette style p/a pump, LS brackets do not.

So, LS Brackets won out and Darrin did a great job reassuring me with measurements and drawings that it would all be ok. So parts ordered and delivered two weeks later with a nice customs bill :-( and I'm ready to trial fit .

Firstly another tool I ordered was a GM pulley removal tool to take the p/s pulley off. This worked well.

Then the existing Camaro p/s reservoir can be refitted back onto the pump.

The first of the two brackets is bolted to the head - pleasingly no fettling required just fit and bolt. These are torqued to 37 lb ft as per standard GM fittings. 

Next the front bracket is laid over the p/s pump and the supped bolts done up.

Here you can see some of the spacers supplied with the kit. The Camaro free pulley is also bolted to this bracket.

Finally all bolted on with spacers and then alternator and the important 16" from water pump axis is all good.

Just the power steering pulley to press back on when I've connected the p/a high pressure hose.

Up tools

I'm back after a break for Christmas, New Year, work commitments and house commitments I'm ready to get on with things again.

Firstly a review of the remote bleeds. My original method had a bleed screw connecting directly to female double flare. This proved a bit poor from a sealing and also wasn't a great set up for bleeding either.

So off came the pipes, reflated to make ends to then fit to a double ended female so that the pipe was permanently fixed and therefore bleeding less fiddly.

Above the revamped versions with brackets holding on the joints, the brackets are more utilitarian than beauty but fine for the job.

All bled again and tested. No leaks, all good!